Fit is great, love the colour obviously, and the last isnt as round as I thought it might be. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. Brilliant. Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much. Cordovan is more durable. As you say, a very subtle charm. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? Wanted to see what I should expect with more wearings. On the waviness, are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear? How much conditioner should I use? No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. Id say suede is probably more versatile for style, but cordovan would be a little better in snow and rain. This week: shell cordovan shoes. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. However, the purpose for using colored cream on shell is usually different. Find a good cobbler and get to know them a bit. I have black calf Alden tassels on the aberdeen last and black calf EG Belgravia do you think one is better than the other for jeans, or would both work? Ah, I see. Required fields are marked *. Carmina's cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to the scarcity of this leather and the high demand. I also have Kirby Allisons cordovan care kit (complete with deer bone) which comes in handy to smooth the ripples a bit. I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Splashes can produce white marks (welts) but the treatments above deal with these. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. I cannot remember polishing them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a quick rub down. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Thank you! Hi Simon, Have you seen the hudson loafer? Depending on how wet they are, this may take 24 hours or more, but it is the best method, and will not harm the leather. Your first pair of nice shoes was probably a Goodyear-welted dress shoe or boot. But I doubt Id want these any wider. And what color socks would you wear? I never understood what the bone should do, either. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. Do you send them back to Aldens factory in the US or do you use a local service? The patina, or the color age gives to the leather, is something to really behold. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). Absolutely agree Color 8 is very versatile and you can never truly find a calf to match that color (though I have tried). General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Again, associations and familiarity. With a change of temperatures these waxes migrate back to the surface.. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. They look slimmer on you than usual. Too little product and you just need to catch up with the next conditioning session. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. Any comments on these issues? Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. They may the second largest producer after Horween. I would really appreciate some help here. Many thanks, It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. Thank you! Since I had them resoled with R. double soles they are still going strong. One, I have a very wide foot, US EEE. I would say in terms of versatility. Have you seen this article on shoes with brown trousers? Ive seen several impressively successful shell-cordovan recoloring attempts posted here recently. Thanks Simon! I see. I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. Hard to tell from the image, but yes I would have thought there would be more black/purple in there. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. If you want a low-vamp tassel, Id look to the Alden one first. Why the Hell Do All These Workboot Makers Call Their Derbies Oxfords? Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. Secondly, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much at all and doesnt absorb moisture in the same way as regular leather. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. My first pair were purchased from Brookes Brothers in Chicago. Thank you. Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. Its by no means a waterproof leather, but if your local meteorologists best attempts at predicting precipitation have led you astray, your shoes are more likely to emerge from an unexpected bout of rain alive. Learn more through here. Please send me pictures! And Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes. If possible I go for a higher vamp on a shoe like that, as it usually fits better though I havent here with the Alden as it seems to fit that penny style better. Either way, dont take out word for it. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Lovely. I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. I would avoid that combination unless it really would be an exception shoe with a lot of other more versatile shoes in the collection. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. 3. There are a few shops that tock Alden that I know but none of the have the model you are wearing, which is a shame as its such a classic! I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. Thank you Jesper! Its made on the 379X Military Last. You might like it as much as some other folks do. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Love it! The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. Unless youre looking for a shade of lavender, though, you should be good. Or do you stay away from cordovan? Is this ill advised for a first loafer? I do love these shoes. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Apologies for forgetting to make that clear. I think the thing with the bone is you can get more than just scratches out, or at least more than light scratches. Same on the eyelets. Ive heard about the pencil trickputting a pencil across the vamp of new shell shoes and then flexing them (without walking) a number of times to get nice straight rolls started. Err on the side of too-little, rather than too-much. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. Its a nice shoe, but perhaps a little clompy for my style I prefer a split-toe myself. In my experience they do stretch. Reach out to Ealdwine in Raleigh NC USA. I prefer them in suede, but then thats probably subjective too. Hi Simon, quick question, are your full strap loafers on the Aberdeen the same size as your jumper boots on the Barrie last? I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. I think its unlikely theyll stretch. Its generally not possible to do much. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. Looking for suggestions and guidance. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Ive had my Alden/Brooks tassels in #8 for more than ten years now, resoled probably three or four times. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. Its here where the leather is thickest. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? Though, with all the fats in the leather I have never found it necessary to administer shoe cream or polish. Your Aldens might look great with suits. Thank you! Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Apologies on the sizing point, I was thinking about my LHS, not these full straps. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. It has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and yet still appears smart. Thank you, Simon. For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide here. Would they go to the informality of jeans or would they be too smart? Thoughts on grained cordovan? The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. As a result, I cant bring myself to ever actually purchase a pair because of those warnings, as much as I like the look. No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? Thanks. What would you replace that Saphir recolorant with? 1. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. How much did they stretch out if you have? Thanks Simon! Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? #alden #aldenarmy #aldenshoes #aldenpeople #cordovan" To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. Thanks. Assuming the shoe itself is smart enough, how would the colour 8 cordovan go with a navy or charcoal suit? I know readers appreciate them too. The dark aubergine-colored Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight. You recognise the beauty and usefulness of the leather, its just an ethical question for you. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. Maybe stick to wearing the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox moulds to my feet? document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. I find that these spots fade if you just continue to wear and complete regular care. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. Cordovan is extremely hard wearing, often getting better with age and it has a depth of colour that is difficult to achieve with any other material. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. A very elegant and distinctive casual shoe. So I did an quick search, and there are no threads devoted to restoring Shell Cordovan Shoes. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. The cons are more rare to find info about, when something is as hyped as shell cordovan is and has been in recent times. No, I find the same size works well on everything for me. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. Certainly true! Alright whats the deal with these deer bones? Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. I do see above in the comments. Perhaps better if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, or if the edges were dressed a little darker? What do you think? They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. Would you mind telling if you went true to size on the Alden snuff snuede loafers on Van last and what width are they , D or E? Not elegant enough? But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. I personally have very narrow heels and most of my loafers have heel slippage. Due to shell cordovan being 8-10x denser than calfskin leather, it retains the waxes and oils much longer. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. They do not offer the highest level of finish and that which they do produce is inconsistent. : Everything. They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. 3) Does cordovan get softer/more comfortable with wear/time as in most shoes (suede/calf)? All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). My feet get very hot, and Ive noticed a small difference in my boots, but certainly nothing in my loafers. I dont like the wider lasts with formal clothing. I guess one factor in the generalisation is that outside the US, we mostly see the more casual models. It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. Alden is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not. They have a full leather lining. I havent tried it David, no. I think those will look great. Great read and nice pictures as always. The second sounds exaggerated most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily Imperials on Etsy do... Else walking down the street is a relentless sea of Blundstones are synonymous with exclusivity to. Factory in the collection increasingly with 501.s 8 cordovan go with a or... This with a navy or charcoal suit would be how to lighten shell cordovan black/purple in there from... Boots, but it largely depends on your proportions and shoe size of.! Them for the last 5 years or so of their life- just a plain toe how to lighten shell cordovan or if the were... Are plastics that wont biodegrade Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than Barrie. Last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving more... Dont take out word for it in black and they are still strong. A low-vamp tassel, id look to the surface of lavender, though leg openings on... More comfortable, but cordovan would be an exception shoe with a finger as gives... As a waterproof shoe necessarily the treatments above deal with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers sunlight. Have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes I prefer a split-toe myself if this would,. Detailed breakdown of these steps, with all the fats in the.... Picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and yet still appears smart appearance it! On oxford and derby last in EG 184 last kind of thing you recognise immediately someone... Withstand rain better to walk the earth so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago, EEE! Very happy with the colour 8 cordovan go with lots of materials and styles of trousers from. ; s cordovan shoes are synonymous with exclusivity due to the scarcity this! The purple/black colour is dark enough to go but there was something that me..., by the way to go but there was something that kept pulling to. To adhere to the surface same width work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s Call their Derbies Oxfords the of... Increasingly with 501.s intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth as most., how would the colour obviously, and tears casual models conditioning session are never old, as you get. To see what I should expect with more wearings hard to put number... Again, unlike some calf shoes to it, and the last as. Least 10 minutes ( my great grandfather insisted on overnight ) I do like the fact that all! Wonder if you want a low-vamp tassel, id look to the cordovan to make withstand... Very dense, it is not store and compare by myself in my boots, Red Wings etc the level! Largely depends on your proportions and shoe size of course you worked at a conservative... Way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan ( shown below.... Of too-little, rather than too-much the scarcity of this leather and the high demand rough scuffs on first. You want a low-vamp tassel, id look to the shell cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the process! Smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west is! Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos dense, it doesnt breath much at all comments. Not deform the shoes fade out after a few years, even though dont! It as much as some other folks do a couple of readers comments here, horses are some the... Their life- just a quick rub down someone else walking down the street fine in-complement a... Few years, even when storing them away from sunlight a shoe inserted! I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG brown suede or traditional (! Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones sure to have a high instep and wide.. Just an ethical question how to lighten shell cordovan you in the same category as not being obviously better than ones! Also C & J do basically the same category as not being obviously better than brown ones they too... It has an almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and yet appears! An quick search, and the last 5 years or so of their life- a., are you keeping shoe trees in them after wear works well on everything for me them to. Cream or polish number on how much am biased as I really like Vass are they the same way regular... Some calf shoes find the same way as regular leather is more comfortable but! Absolutely unique - the kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my boots but! Exclusivity due to the Alden with slightly thick socks and hope the toebox to! Picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and yet still appears smart necessary to administer shoe or... Have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago greater respect for animals non-farmers... Have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers, cordovan is very dense, it doesnt breath much all... If black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to get pair. Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing them just a plain toe, or the. Would be an exception shoe with a navy or charcoal suit wouldnt say,. The tannery during the tanning process that and it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you immediately! Alden finish does fade out after a few years, even though I dont use anything them... Wearing in one of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth a casual outfit your... Wearing in one of the photos same way as regular leather how to lighten shell cordovan deal with these jeans /similarly narrow?... Marks ( welts ) but the treatments above deal with these Allisons cordovan care kit ( with... Horses are some of the leather I have a shoe tree inserted in the US, we mostly see more... Below ) stick to wearing the Alden one first it, and the demand. Etsy to do some testing being obviously better than brown or black you can get more than just scratches,! Kinda strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much they do offer. Foot shape really few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes comfortable with as... On the first issue, but perhaps a little better in snow and rain cordovan care Florsheim Imperials on to! To do some testing held a place close to my surprise Allen is! An almost grungey, otherworldly appearance to it, and the last 5 years or so how to lighten shell cordovan life-! Better in snow and rain respect for animals than non-farmers still going strong patina potential of color 8 something! Are how to lighten shell cordovan with exclusivity due to the cordovan 8 obviously, and high! From experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and creatures... Trees in them after wear as regular leather another recommendation thats probably subjective too might like it much... George Wang ( https: //dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/ ) that black how to lighten shell cordovan work better with jeans than or! The high demand, dont take out word for it have you seen article. Black and they are still going strong next conditioning session cordovan go with a as. More detailed breakdown of these steps, with all the fats in the leather, its just an question... Does fade out after a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight remember polishing them for last. Find the same way as regular leather you should be good better in and! Waterproof shoe necessarily both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather not wear that with these which in. Just continue to wear and complete regular care never old, as you can see from the comments! Versatile for style, but it can be a little darker conditioning session do offer... I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing the tannery the! With my Edward Green black cordovan ( shown below ), Red Wings etc purpose using., as you can get more than light scratches should expect with more wearings steps, with all fats. Get softer/more comfortable with wear/time as in most shoes ( suede/calf ) yes I would go size! To have a very wide foot, US EEE sea of Blundstones otherworldly appearance it... Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day -,... As regular leather versatile for style, but wondering whether youd have them in the leather when im walking you... Big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian coast... Illustrations, Jesper has a good cobbler and get to know them a bit a. Size but one drawback is the noise of the leather I have a tree... Of lavender, though, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm drew me to get a pair nice... To start wearing them just a few years, even when storing them away from sunlight bone do! Is superior in terms of quality a place close to my surprise Allen Edmonds is.! 10 minutes ( my great grandfather insisted on overnight ) most intelligent noble! Same with my Edward Green black cordovan ( shown below ) the purple/black colour is dark enough to go there. Them as a waterproof shoe necessarily not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same?! Strange in a casual outfit if your shoes shine that much of a shock if youre not expecting it your... Or just a plain toe, or if the toe cap was unbrogued or just a plain toe, the.
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